If you have the pleasure of wandering in some Yemeni villages of different landscapes during daylight, it's very likely that you'll see beautiful and colourful clothing as though you were in a fashion show.

Clothing designs in Yemen have witnessed a lot of changes throughout time. Being located at a crossroad of ancient trade routes, the designs have absorbed influences from India, Africa, Europe as well as parts of the Middle East.

Due to its fragmented topography and the isolation of its many parts, for centuries Yemen had a number of regional styles which have developed and evolved over time. The main features one can identify though are the use of varied and bright colors, which are made from local natural dyes such as indigo or copper and are also imported dyes. Another feature is the frequent use of sophisticated embroidery on dresses (Zenna) and trousers (Sirwal), sometimes using silver threads and even sewing over the cloth elements of Yemen's famous silverwork (beads, small chain, rings).

An interesting factor is the message the clothes convey.  Whereas men's clothing used to reflect Yemen's stratified social hierarchy, women’s clothing never had that function.  Their social standing is determined by their husband or father, and the distinction in clothing only signifies their geographical origin (town, country and regional styles). 

These regional styles are determined by climate, the type of work that people engage in and finally the availability of certain materials and fabrics. For example, in the coastal area along the Rea Sea, where it is hot and humid most of the year, women wear light clothes and protect themselves from the heat with straw hats. The local indigo industry in Zabid is at the origin of a peculiar type of dark blue and shiny dress (Zenna) that is worn rather tight but with a wide neck opening both to allow better breathing and to make dressing easier.

Men from Tihama also wear either white or coloured fabrics that they wrap around their waist. These fabrics are weaved and are still produced for some tribes who wear them on both sides of the Saudi-Yemeni border. On special order it was possible to have silk woven into that fabric to give it a softer and shiner outlook. Weavers were concentrated in Beyt al-faqih and Zabid.  

In the mountains where the climate is more temperate, heat is less of a factor in dressing. Women also like the colourful patterns and embroideries on their dresses and they also adorn the bottom of the tight dark trousers that they always wear under their dress. Women veil their hair and face more than other regions.   There used to be many different types of veils, the "Sitara" with circular patches of color but also the broad black and red stripes originating from Wadi Dhar or the fine floral motives encapsulated in large tiles that are printed on white cotton fabrics and are worn by women of Radaa.

Another element of regional differences are hats, in the North Western mountains women wear very small hats that barely cover their hair, obviously these hats that are woven locally display these women's love of stylish headwear. 

In Hadramaut most women are also entirely veiled in black but wear a tall straw hat to cool their heads when they are engaged in tiresome fieldwork. In some of the smaller valleys of Hadramaut distinctive styles exist with red dresses or the same face masks of leather decorated with gold that one finds in Oman.

However, those colourful days have passed away with the entrance of new fashion's styles. Nowadays, almost all women around Yemen wear the same dark veils (sharshaf/ baltooh).  We are losing our colourful expressions in clothing that speak volumes about our history and our regional differences.  No wonder that visitors to Yemen sometimes get an impression that Yemeni women are sad just because they are covered in black.  

Be first to comment this article

Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.2